Sunday, July 1, 2012

Baby Gifts to make


Summer is the time for new babies and weddings.  Remember it only take cold weather to get the snuggling to happen which we all know what it leads to. 

Bonnet
 
Materials:  Bonnet Pattern (click 'download', then print it) , 2 fat quarters of fabric, lightweight fusible interfacing, and 2 buttons
Directions: Cut out the pattern.Iron your fabric and then fold each in half, right sides in. Lay the pieces on top of each other with your folds lined up. Pin your pattern through both fabrics and cut. Seam allowances are included, so cut right on the line. Fold a piece of interfacing and cut one pattern piece from that, too. You should have three pattern pieces now. 
  
Make the straps. Choose which fabric you want your straps to be. Cut two straps from your scraps, 2.5" x 15" (length and width isn't super important, so if you only have enough for 2.25" x 13" strips, go with it. Mine ended up being longer, more like 17"). 
 

Fold each strip in half with the right sides in, so you have two long, skinny pieces. Iron.
Take it to your sewing machine and stitch 1/4" around one short edge (I made mine with a point to make it a little fancier) and the long edge. Leave one short edge open. Trim your corner if you did a point on your short edge. Turn your straps right side out--I find a long knitting needle is helpful here. Iron and set aside.Assemble the bonnet. First, iron your interfacing according to the package directions onto the wrong side of one of your fabric pattern pieces. Next, lay one bonnet piece, right side up, on your work surface. Place the other piece, right side down, on top. Place your straps inside on the straight edge, with the short edge you didn't sew sticking out the side Fold the straps accordion-style.  Pin all around. Take your bonnet to the sewing machine and sew 1/4" from edge, all the way around, leaving a two inch gap at the back, between the straps. Be careful not to stitch the folded straps!  Turn right side out and iron (press your open edges inside the bonnet). You may be wondering at this point if it is ever going to look like a bonnet. It will, even though it now resembles a jellyfish.
 
Finish off. Top stitching will close up the gap you left to turn your bonnet right-side out. Once you have it all top stitched the way you want, it is time to turn it from jellyfish to bonnet! Pull the back sides forward onto the curved edge and pin.
You are going to be sewing your buttons here. Sometimes it takes a little tinkering to get it *just right*.  Sew your buttons on.
 
Notes:  If you want to make a larger size, just add an inch or two around the outside edges of the bonnet. I have a 6-12 month pattern worked out, but it would require a scanner or something to get it onto my computer because it is bigger than one piece of paper. I am not that fancy, so you will have to work it out yourself..
Changing Pad
Materials:   1 yard of Fusible fleece, 1 yard of PUL-polyurethane laminated fabric, thread, sewing machine, scissors, and Wonder-Under
Directions:  Cut a rectangle 24 x 14 out of your top and bottom fabrics, and a slightly smaller rectangle out of Wonder-Under (WU), about 1/8″ smaller on all sides. In this photo uses fusible fleece so there would be a little padding. But I discovered that when it’s folded up it’s just too bulky; so halfway through changed over to Wonder-Under. Use a home-dec0 weight fabric (the elephants) and a blue flexible wipe able fabric (technically called PUL-polyurethane laminated fabric). The blue PUL is soft on one side and plastic-ey wipe able on the other side. It’s really flexible and easily folds up without getting crinkly or sticky like vinyl.
   Next iron the WU to the elephant fabric then peeled of the backing. Then I placed these 2 layers on top of the PUL and ironed the elephant side again.  Three layers were fused together then trace the curve of a bowl in each corner for rounded corners.   After cutting out the rounded corners, then stitch 1/2″ bias tape around the whole thing and that was it!  If you’re worried the fabric layers aren’t going to stay together when adding the bias tape you may want to stitch around the outer edges first.
Baby Changing Kit
Finished changing pad is about 12"by 27" long. The pocket holds one hard or soft wipes container as well as one or two diapers.
Materials:  1/2 yard Cotton Print for the outside and pocket, 1/2 yard Chenille, Minky, or heavy Flannel; (I prefer Chenille because it is nice and thick without having to add extra batting), Thread, and Sew on Velcro,
Directions: Cut the cotton and Chenille fabric into a rectangle 13" x 35".
Lay the fabrics right sides together and pin edges well.  Sew edges together with a 1/2" seam allowance leaving a 4-5" opening on one of the 13" ends; this is so you can turn it all inside out later.
*A 1/2" seam allowance is important so you can stitch the hole closed with your top stitching.
*Chenille and Minky both have a tendency to stretch a lot. Use a walking foot if you have one, it helps to guide the top and bottom layers of fabric at the same rate. If not don't worry about the stretching, keep it taught so you don't have any large folds, and again pinning well will help.